The CookbookCookbook · 12 dishes

Vietnamese street snacks

The plastic-stool food eaten standing up and between meals — the banh mi cart, the sizzling pancake, the fresh and fried spring rolls, the little Hue rice cakes, a basket of sticky rice at dawn. Vietnam’s street snacks are cheap, fast, and often the best thing you’ll eat all trip. Here’s the field guide to ordering them.

Fresh spring rolls — Gỏi cuốn
Gỏi cuốn$1–2.50
Fresh spring rolls·goy koon

The fresh, un-fried rolls — shrimp, pork, herbs, and rice noodle in translucent paper.

SouthernNationwide
Sizzling pancake — Bánh xèo© Kent Wang from Austin, TX · CC BY-SA 2.0
Bánh xèo$1.50–3
Sizzling pancake·bang say-oh

A crackly turmeric crêpe stuffed with shrimp and bean sprouts — wrapped and dipped.

CentralSouthern
Banh mi — Bánh mì
Bánh mì$0.75–2
Banh mi·bang mee

The colonial-baguette sandwich Vietnam perfected and the world stole.

Nationwide
Fried spring rolls — Nem rán / Chả giò
Nem rán / Chả giò$1.50–3
Fried spring rolls·nem zan / cha zaw

The crisp, deep-fried rolls — "nem rán" in the north, "chả giò" in the south.

Nationwide
Sticky rice — Xôi© Nguyễn Thanh Quang · Public domain
Xôi$0.50–1.50
Sticky rice·soy

The portable breakfast of champions — glutinous rice, savoury or sweet, in a banana leaf.

Nationwide
Tofu & shrimp-paste platter — Bún đậu mắm tôm© trungnguyen299 · CC BY-SA 2.0
Bún đậu mắm tôm$2–4
Tofu & shrimp-paste platter·boon dow mam tom

A communal northern platter built around fried tofu and Vietnam’s most divisive dip.

Northern
Ốc$3–8
Snails & shellfish·ohp

A whole evening eating culture — sea snails and shellfish, beer, and plastic stools.

Southern
Steamed rice cakes — Bánh bèo© Vietcuongdao · CC BY-SA 4.0
Bánh bèo$1.50–3
Steamed rice cakes·bang bay-oh

Hue’s little water-fern saucers of steamed rice topped with shrimp and crackling.

Central
Grilled pork sausage rolls — Nem nướng© Baoothersks · CC BY-SA 4.0
Nem nướng$3–6
Grilled pork sausage rolls·nem nuong

Skewers of grilled pork sausage you wrap at the table with herbs and rice paper.

CentralSouthern
Mini coconut pancakes — Bánh khọt© manda_wong · CC BY 2.0
Bánh khọt$2–4
Mini coconut pancakes·bang khot

Crispy little coconut-batter cups topped with a prawn, wrapped in greens and dipped.

Southern
Grilled rice paper — Bánh tráng nướng© Light Write · CC BY-SA 2.0
Bánh tráng nướng$1–2
Grilled rice paper·bang chang nuong

Da Lat’s “Vietnamese pizza” — rice paper grilled crisp with egg and toppings.

CentralSouthern
Phở cuốn$2–4
Rolled pho·fuh koon

A Hanoi twist: uncut pho sheets wrapped around grilled beef and herbs, no broth.

Northern